2/28/2024 0 Comments Flux 125 welder thicknessLook for a hood that has a replaceable battery. A 1/1/1/1 clarity filter doesn't do much good if you never replace your outer lens. Don't cheap out - replace them as they start to get beat up. ![]() You don't want to get stuck having to buy an overpriced proprietary shape from a specific manufacturer. For hobby use, I'd even consider a 1/1/1/2 hood since most of what you'll be working on will be on a table.Ĭonsumables/Wear Items - You'll want a hood that takes a standard size inner and outer protective lens. A rating of 1/1/1/1 is considered 'perfect'. It is very difficult to make a good weld if you can't see what you are doing. Keep in mind, this is written for a hobbyist, not a professional.Ĭlarity Rating - For me, this is probably the most important feature. Here are a few things you'll want to watch out for. You'll be happy to find that you can get a very good hood without breaking the bank these days. And it would cost significantly less than buying the cheap black box and upgrading it like I did. The "Titanium Easy-Flux 125 Amp Welder" looks to be a capable DC inverter FCAW machine from HF. I only bothered with the exercise because I had many of the parts, and I got the welder for a song. However, once you've bought those components, you've already spend as much on parts as you would on a cheap DC welder. You'll need a bridge rectifier with ample capacity (a 200A bridge may work if well heat sinked, but I used a 400A one, because too small a bridge may let the smoke out, and be an expensive waste of money), plus a huge (think soda can sized) electrolytic capacitor, plus a bleeder resister for that cap. ![]() If you're electronically inclined, it can be made to work. Now, I do use my machine from time to time, but only because it has been heavily modified. Or, to put it another way, FCAW with AC will give you a sputtering bird shit weld where you get more dingleberries than penetration. Here's the issue (and I am NOT biased against HF). ![]() Not worth spending any money on, and out of the box, guaranteed to give unusable results. The flatter the better also drag don’t push.Ok, I own one of these, and can speak from some authority on it. The second is this wire does not work well if welding vertical. Whole package with welder and mods was $200. This is the weld after a winter on the truck in VA. Just added the quick connect welding lugs.įinished weld crummy because I don’t care lol. Anyways just one of those tools to throw in the bag of tricks if you ever need it.īlue demon gasless stainless steel wire loaded in the Harbor “Fright” welder. You won’t be able to weld much thicker then 16ga but it will do it. The settings required are not anywhere near what’s normally used for flux core wire. Now I could switch it to electrode positive which is what blue demon recommends for the wire. I then to add 100 amp welder lugs to the cut ends and labeled the ground wire coming out of the welder positive. ![]() I then cut the wire to the gun and the ground wire. To get around that I cut back some of the sheath around the wires to the gun. It comes from harbor freight electrode negative. With the Titanium 125 flux core welder you cannot change the electrode polarity. I did have to mod the welder just a small bit to get it to work. It’s specifically designed for welding stainless without gas. I used blue demon 308LFC stainless steel flux core wire. So I figured I’d give it a shot to see if I could make it work. I didn’t want to use a normal flux core wire because it will rust and remove the properties of stainless steel around the weld. I needed to weld an O2 bung on my exhaust. Well to my surprise it is possible to weld thin 304 stainless with a 120v flux core welder.
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